Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Alright, Games Workshop kind of sprang this all on us at once. No more metals, everything’s going to resin.
Well, I picked up a few blisters to look at over the weekend and I’ve got to say that I’m torn. On one hand, they got more expensive (boo) but on the other hand they’re much more detailed and easier to convert (yay). However, with the increased details of resin, you also get things like air bubbles and loss of detail from where the mold has torn off on previous runs (booooo).
I’ve laid out the reviews of the individual models here so you can try and make a decision for yourself.
Ork Big Mek
Having assembled and painted three different iterations of this model, I have to say that the resin version is superb looking. The Mek’s face is well defined and the armor plates have nice crisp edges. The big downside was the backpack. Resin molds are given to tearing themselves apart when a very finely detailed model is pulled out of them; as the Mek’s backpack has lots of little areas where the mold has to rapidly change angles (the metal ribbing on the Kustom Force Field) the mold is already shot. The ribbing on the backpack was terrible in some places and I had to do what I could with a knife. It doesn’t look too terrible, but its metal equivalent was much better. There was also a major vent covering the right hand’s knuckles, but given how easy it is to cut the resin, it was an easy fix. All the pieces fit together nicely otherwise.
Lopping off the Mek’s arm holding the giant spanner has never been easier either; I just snipped it off, shaved the shoulder flat with a hobby knife and slapped a plastic power klaw on him. Took less than a minute and looks great. No need for hacksaws or pinning here.
I just primed the model the other evening and I have to say: BE CAREFUL WHEN PRIMING! Since there’s so much more detail now, it’s very easy to obscure it with primer. Remember, several thin coats are better than one massive coat. When in doubt, use less and just brush base coat what’s left.
Very glad I picked him up. The conversion was stupid-simple, meaning that we’ll hopefully be seeing some much more diverse Big Meks out on the table. The biggest downside was his backpack being all fouled up because the molds got run too hard at GW. If you decide to grab one, inspect it carefully first.
After cracking this guy out of his package, I was very pleased with how crisp all the armor plates were and how defined some of the smaller detail was. Unlike the metal models, which tended to round off at a sharp edge, the resin keeps its definition. There was quiet a bit of flash on this model, but it came off easily and didn’t obscure any detail, so it wasn’t a problem. The biggest fault of this model is one that it shares with its old metal brother: it goes together for shit. The two little sets of “wings” that attach to its back have never lined up with the carapace properly and still don’t. Granted, now that they’re nice light resin, they stay in place with only a little glue and the whole assembly sits on the base with no wobble. (I can only imagine the joy that will come to a Tyranid player’s face when they can finally put a Zoanthrope on a slight incline without it taking a header into the table.)
As I stated, the model has never gone together well, so I’m going to have to break out the green stuff and fill the back joints up. The real test of these new kits will actually come around when someone unboxes a Hive Tyrant. The 3-piece assembly that makes up its back is also notoriously bad.
I plan on lopping off the little Tyranid plant/branch thingy that the model’s tail rests on so that I can have it floating over something else. With as easy as this resin is to play with, I foresee no complications.
Again, be very careful when going to prime this model. There is quite a bit of fine detail you might lose, especially around its brainy bits.
While still very pricey ($25!), the model is very nice and well worth picking up, if for nothing else just to have a Zoanthrope that can actually stand up. Keep in mind, you’ll need to bring the green stuff along for this one… but Tyranid players should be used to that by now anyway.
Grey Knight Lord Kaldor Draigo
This model is absolutely gorgeous. We compared it to a few Forgeworld Models and the detail was just as good if not better. There was very little clean up as far as mold lines, but there were quite a few vent nubs on the model (which I was fine with, more vents = less bad casts). This model would have been perfect if it weren’t for the air bubbles in his sword arm. Most of the bubbles were small and minor, but a few were actually in the sword, causing it to sort-of “peel apart”. I repaired it with a little glue and hopefully it will look fine once primed.
Luckily, Curtis was at the store and I was able to bum some Grey Knight bits off of him to make a new left arm for the model (Draigo never struck me as that awesome of a character so I made him a regular HQ dood). All the bits connected easily with the resin and there was no need for additional pinning or glue.
I know I’ve said it before but FOR THE LOVE OF GOD BE CAREFUL! This guy has got so much tiny detail on him that a heavy-handed prime job could obliterate it.
You have been warned.
An otherwise perfect model marred by some unfortunate casting problems. Always check out the model in the blister before you commit to buying. With such small detail, the mold is sure to go bad sooner or later.
Rating: 9.5/10 (Bubbles brought it down slightly)
Please feel free to leave any feedback you have with your own experiences. I'm curious to see what luck people have with these...