Friday, December 2, 2011

Status Report

Okay, I'm using Blogger's new format now and it's pretty fancy. It shows me pages views for the entire site and even individual posts. Our most-viewed post is actually my kit-bashed Wracks from way back when at somewhere around 3,500 views! Ha! Suck it, Ian!

...aww, I made myself sad... 

Anyhow! Updates!

I have to admit, I've been having a bit of a painter's crisis lately. I had gotten to a point where I was sitting down, brush in had, going, "Why am I doing this? This is no longer fun". Granted, trying to mesh life, commissions and sanity (as well as some other things SKYRIM) was not particularly helping the situation.

So, in a fit of insanity and anger, I made some weird decisions:
- I've binned all my GW armies with the exception of things I can use to make Ian's armies better (i.e.- Speedy Ork things, Dark Eldar for Adepticon, etc.).
- Bought some Confrontation (from the bin, oddly enough)
- Started scouring the internet for ideas, then subsequently started forraging for sticks, rocks and bark.

Basically, I feel that I completely lost sight of what I was doing as little as 4 years ago. I wanted to get better. I wanted to be off kicking ass in competitions. Instead, I got complacent. I started taking on commissions and starting focusing on "getting finished" instead of "getting better".

I should be able to do this: Examplez

But I can't.

So, I'm starting over. I have a painted army for 40K, Fantasy, Malifaux and even War Machine sitting up in Epic Loot's cases, so I'm good for playing. I'm going to take a break on my commissions whenever I get the current batch done, so that'll give me more breathing room/project table space. I'm going to go through every how-to, tutorial and step-by-step I can get my hands on and I'm going to practice. I will be able to make displays, do Non-Metallic Metals and free-hand better.

I will get better.

I know a few people are peeved that I abandoned the Bad Moons yet again and that I dropped the brand new Ogre army I was starting, but I had to do it for sanity's sake. Maybe once I get better I can do the Bad Moons how they should be done, but right now I can't get my head around the proper weathering of yellow.

Anyway, enough excuses. You'll know when this process starts because I will be documenting it through this website to try and help others improve as well; I just have to remember to start taking the camera home with me.

On a parting note, if anyone still has access to the old Confrontation Clan Uraken Goblins, please let me know. Those were my absolute favorite to paint and I greatly regret getting rid of most of mine.

Monday, August 8, 2011

Epic Loot Iron Builder: Month One (Dark Eldar Assembly)

Alright folks, the fine people over at Epic Loot are officially kicking off their Iron Builder on August 20th. It's $20 to play (which gets you entry into the league and 2 tournaments) and will run for 4 months.

Each month a player will be responsible for assembling and painting 500 points worth of models. The idea is, that after 4 months each player will have a fully painted 2000 point army! It's great fun and I encourage anyone in the area to come play.

I've decided to further add to Ian's Dark Eldar for the League, and as such will be doing 1000 points of Homunculus Coven and 1000 points of Witch Cult.

The first 500 points is as follows:

1 x Homunculus (with Agonizer and other hurty bits)
10 x Wracks (2 x Liquifiers and Acolyte)
10 x Wracks (2 x Liquifiers and Acolyte)
Talos (Twin-linked Haywire Blaster, Chain Flails and Additional CCW)

And the assemblies of said models:

I don't have the other Wrack Squad assembled yet because GW seems to have a 20% Failure Rate when it comes to Finecast troop boxes; and that number is only based off of the ones that I couldn't salvage with Green Stuff.

More to come.

P.S.- Almost forgot. Ian's Dark Eldar won Best Painted at Epic Loots Grand Opening Tournament! As promised, the $50 went to several paint brush sets and palettes for all the new painters who attend Kevin Kirby's painting classes on Thursday evenings at Epic Loot.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Hi-Ho, Hi-Ho, it's off to Ebayz you go.

Alright, seeing as how Fantasy kind of died for me, I'm putting some stuff up on teh Ebayz for bills and such. Here's some of the pictures of the stuff and here is the link to my store if anyone is so inclined.

There's a few more things in the store, but Blogger is being a jerk about pictures...

Friday, July 15, 2011

I’m an idiot…

Well, I took about 20 different pictures of the completed Venom last night to show everyone.

The camera didn’t have a memory card in it…

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Completing Ian’s Armies: Part One (DARK ELDAR) and the Ian Villamagna Gaming FUNd.

Alright, so I’ve been thinking about doing this for awhile and the opening of the new game store (see: Epic Loot), and their subsequent Rouge Trader on the 30th, has given me the impetuous to do it. So over the next few random lengths of time, I’m going to try and paint up a few things to add to the amazing armies that Ian left us.

I do this in the hopes that the army may well win some Loot of it’s own while at the tournament. These proceeds will be taken and put into an “Ian Villamagna FUNd” at the new store. This money will be used for terrain, demo models, board games, card games and such for the store so that people can, in general, have fun on Ian’s behalf. I also hope to make some form of “New Gamer Kits” that can be easily handed out so that the new blood will have all those little things that you never really think about when you start the hobby (paint recipe book, palettes, bitz boxes, etc).

Anyhow, here are the things I’m going to add to the already beautiful Dark Eldar army (I just hope I can match the painting).

- 4 x Kabalite Trueborn with Blasters

- 1 x Venom w/ Splinter Cannon for the Trueborn

- 1 x Ravager w/ 3 x Dark Lances

- 1 x Razorwing Fighter w/ 4 x Shatterfield Missiles and 2 x Dark Lances

- 3 x Hydra Gauntlet Blood Brides

You’ll notice a theme of Anti-Tank in the additions. Ian made a beautiful looking army, but it just does not have what’s needed to survive against Mech lists (which I assume there will be a ton of).

Pics soon (hopefully) as I have to get this stuff done by the 22nd, as the girl and I are going on vacation for a week then.

Wish me luck…

Friday, June 17, 2011

Finecast Follow-up

Alright guys, quick follow-up on those bugs that I bought.

Called GW Monday and explained the situation, they had 2 new models sent out and they just arrived yesterday.

Elated that I'd basically just gotten $50 worth of extra models, I cracked them open.


The Hive Guard was missing a huge chunk of detail in his collar (where a piece of the mold ripped off on the last model pulled), and the Tyrant guard has a series of air bubbles down his head and torso that follow the mold line.

At first, the Tyrant Guard looked pristine. It wasn’t until I tried to scrape the mold line that the whole front caved in.

Luckily, I got a hold of GW before they closed and I have a second package on the way. We shall see how that goes.

The Tyrant Guard is fixable, but I'll have to fiddle with the Hive Guard.

(I'll try and get pictures up soon.)

Thursday, June 9, 2011

More Finecast

I just picked up two Tyranid Hive Guard and a Tyrant Guard last night and these things are fucking lousy with air bubbles.

The Hive Guards have long air bubbles in their tails that have to be filled with green stuff. The Tyrant Guard had big air bubbles right on top of his head that need to be filled.

However, the most annoying bubbles on both models were those that occurred at the ends of claws/spikes. These completely ruin the detail and there is no "quick fix" aside from re-sculpting the spike. (Technically I guess there aren’t bubbles, but rather the mold not filling completely…)

They're still nicely detailed, light, easily convertible and all that jazz, but damn if the bubbles aren't annoying.

Moral of the story:

Buyer beware!

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Finecast Review

Alright, Games Workshop kind of sprang this all on us at once. No more metals, everything’s going to resin.



Well, I picked up a few blisters to look at over the weekend and I’ve got to say that I’m torn. On one hand, they got more expensive (boo) but on the other hand they’re much more detailed and easier to convert (yay). However, with the increased details of resin, you also get things like air bubbles and loss of detail from where the mold has torn off on previous runs (booooo).

I’ve laid out the reviews of the individual models here so you can try and make a decision for yourself.

Ork Big Mek


Having assembled and painted three different iterations of this model, I have to say that the resin version is superb looking. The Mek’s face is well defined and the armor plates have nice crisp edges. The big downside was the backpack. Resin molds are given to tearing themselves apart when a very finely detailed model is pulled out of them; as the Mek’s backpack has lots of little areas where the mold has to rapidly change angles (the metal ribbing on the Kustom Force Field) the mold is already shot. The ribbing on the backpack was terrible in some places and I had to do what I could with a knife. It doesn’t look too terrible, but its metal equivalent was much better. There was also a major vent covering the right hand’s knuckles, but given how easy it is to cut the resin, it was an easy fix. All the pieces fit together nicely otherwise.


Lopping off the Mek’s arm holding the giant spanner has never been easier either; I just snipped it off, shaved the shoulder flat with a hobby knife and slapped a plastic power klaw on him. Took less than a minute and looks great. No need for hacksaws or pinning here.


I just primed the model the other evening and I have to say: BE CAREFUL WHEN PRIMING! Since there’s so much more detail now, it’s very easy to obscure it with primer. Remember, several thin coats are better than one massive coat. When in doubt, use less and just brush base coat what’s left.


Very glad I picked him up. The conversion was stupid-simple, meaning that we’ll hopefully be seeing some much more diverse Big Meks out on the table. The biggest downside was his backpack being all fouled up because the molds got run too hard at GW. If you decide to grab one, inspect it carefully first.

Rating: 8.5/10

Tyranid Zoanthrope


After cracking this guy out of his package, I was very pleased with how crisp all the armor plates were and how defined some of the smaller detail was. Unlike the metal models, which tended to round off at a sharp edge, the resin keeps its definition. There was quiet a bit of flash on this model, but it came off easily and didn’t obscure any detail, so it wasn’t a problem. The biggest fault of this model is one that it shares with its old metal brother: it goes together for shit. The two little sets of “wings” that attach to its back have never lined up with the carapace properly and still don’t. Granted, now that they’re nice light resin, they stay in place with only a little glue and the whole assembly sits on the base with no wobble. (I can only imagine the joy that will come to a Tyranid player’s face when they can finally put a Zoanthrope on a slight incline without it taking a header into the table.)

Extra Work:

As I stated, the model has never gone together well, so I’m going to have to break out the green stuff and fill the back joints up. The real test of these new kits will actually come around when someone unboxes a Hive Tyrant. The 3-piece assembly that makes up its back is also notoriously bad.


I plan on lopping off the little Tyranid plant/branch thingy that the model’s tail rests on so that I can have it floating over something else. With as easy as this resin is to play with, I foresee no complications.


Again, be very careful when going to prime this model. There is quite a bit of fine detail you might lose, especially around its brainy bits.


While still very pricey ($25!), the model is very nice and well worth picking up, if for nothing else just to have a Zoanthrope that can actually stand up. Keep in mind, you’ll need to bring the green stuff along for this one… but Tyranid players should be used to that by now anyway.

Rating 8/10

Grey Knight Lord Kaldor Draigo


This model is absolutely gorgeous. We compared it to a few Forgeworld Models and the detail was just as good if not better. There was very little clean up as far as mold lines, but there were quite a few vent nubs on the model (which I was fine with, more vents = less bad casts). This model would have been perfect if it weren’t for the air bubbles in his sword arm. Most of the bubbles were small and minor, but a few were actually in the sword, causing it to sort-of “peel apart”. I repaired it with a little glue and hopefully it will look fine once primed.


Luckily, Curtis was at the store and I was able to bum some Grey Knight bits off of him to make a new left arm for the model (Draigo never struck me as that awesome of a character so I made him a regular HQ dood). All the bits connected easily with the resin and there was no need for additional pinning or glue.


I know I’ve said it before but FOR THE LOVE OF GOD BE CAREFUL! This guy has got so much tiny detail on him that a heavy-handed prime job could obliterate it.

You have been warned.


An otherwise perfect model marred by some unfortunate casting problems. Always check out the model in the blister before you commit to buying. With such small detail, the mold is sure to go bad sooner or later.

Rating: 9.5/10 (Bubbles brought it down slightly)

Please feel free to leave any feedback you have with your own experiences. I'm curious to see what luck people have with these...

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Bad Moonz Army (7th time's the charm, right?)

Two weekends ago, Brian Smith and I got the crazy idea that we should drive to Chicago for Adepticon. Like all truly great ideas, this one was formulated at the last minute. So perhaps it was the lack of sleep or the incredibly savvy Brit who was working the booth, but we both walked away from the Forge World booth with much more than we had anticipated.

Without intending to, I’ve apparently re-started my Bad Moon army; I hope to finally get it to feel right this time. Each time I’ve started the army previously, it’s just never quite felt Bad Moony enough; the army hasn’t felt like it’s had enough Dakka.

Well, I think I’m on the way to solving that little problem. I give you the Dakka Trakk:

For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Forge World’s “Imperial Armour 8: Raid on Kastorel Novem”, there is plenty of tasty Ork goodness contained within. One such vehicle is the Ork “Big Trakk” which can be taken in squadrons of 1-3 as a Heavy Support slot.

These bad boys can sport a whopping 6 Big Shootas, plus a Flakka Gun that basically has the same stats as a Hyrda (minus the twin-linked, dammit). On top of all that shooty, they still have a transport capacity of 6 and Front Armor 12!

Now, to be fair, two of the Big Shootas are actually “Grot Sponsons”. Meaning they get one higher Ballistic Skill, but have the chance of getting smeared across the hull every time your vehicle takes a Glancing or Penetrating hit. Forge World makes their own kit for these little guys, but I just slapped together some random bits to create mine:

Next up, I’ve got a unit of Nobs with lots of nice, loud twin-linked Shootas. Granted, it’s not the best kit-out for a Nob squad, but they look flashy and that’s what being a Bad Moon is really about. The models are based off of Micro Art Studios Long-Coat Ork Torsos . Ian converted up all the guns for everyone (plus the Painboy), I simply added the Nob heads and Armored Gubbins.

So, all in all, I think I have a good start towards an army with more bullets than sense. I’ve still got a second Big Trakk to build and I need to make a Big Mek Junka with Kustom Force Field to protect them.


Wednesday, March 23, 2011

The Passing of a Titan

For those of you who may not have heard, my cohort Ian “Funk Master” Villamagna passed away on Friday, March 11th after what is assumed to have been a seizure.

This will come as a shock to many, I’m sure, as he was only 24 years old and had no prior medical history of such things.

I would ask you all not to be saddened by his passing, but rather, happy in having shared in his wisdom on this site. He was like a brother to me and I will greatly miss him, not only for his companionship, but also for his great knowledge of the hobby. I am so very grateful that he was the more prolific of the two of us and that he chose to share a fraction of that know-how here.

I will eventually be posting pictures of all his finished work on this site and, most likely, some sort of Photo Bucket album so that all of it is on the web for people to enjoy and draw inspiration from.

I’ve got no good way to finish such a sad article, so I will leave you with some words of wisdom from Ian,

“Hang on, let me finish this color.”

We'll miss you, little buddy.

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Advanced Basing Techniques

Basing can make or break a model. Even if your painting skills rank only a "meh", complete and uniform basing can make your army really pop. But if you're looking to make your army look super-sharp, complex or creative basing can be one of the most important steps.

I recommend devising a theme for your army. For example, I thought it'd be fun for my Dark Eldar to be assaulting a Mechanicum Forge World. If you've read Graham McNeil's "Mechanicum" or Dan Abnett's "Titanicus" then you know what a Forge World looks like in my mind's eye: dusty, gritty, utterly polluted, littered with scrap machinery and junk parts left to rust for eternity. My Dark Eldar would be raiding this Forge World to steal items and technology to sell to other races or to use for themselves, as well as grab a few Tech-Adepts and menials for the torture tables! Therefore, they'd be blowing holes in buildings and assaulting through to nab all the cool stuff. I itemized what I wanted to do, and wrote down how to do it.

1: Dusty/Gritty: The obvious starting point would be gravel/sand glued to the base, what really mattered was the color choice. The sand would be painted GW Vomit Brown and then dry-brushed GW Plague Brown, with a few spots of dry-brushed GW Bleached Bone. I also added stones and boulders buried in the sand, using my old standby of cork glued to the base before the sand. Here's the type of cork I use: Linky-link!

2: Junk: I glue anything to the base that looks even remotely mechanical. My favorite are lock washers because they look like cogs or gears. Plastruct and Evergreen make a variety of useful types of plasticard rod such as I-beams or ladders, and all sizes of round tubing. GW bitz are also super-useful. I've been using the inside gubbinz of Space Marine Drop Pods, (because I don't use them on the inside of the Drop Pods, I just glue the SoB's shut!) because they can be easily cut to look like ubiquitous machine parts. Searchlights, jerry cans, ammo bins, IG stowage, grating cut from SM Razorback hatches, exhaust ports, anything! A $20 box of Cities of Death terrain can supply an entire army's worth of basing material! Just start digging through your bitz bins until you can find something that could be mistaken for machinery. Even just brass rod bent at rounded 90 degree angles can simulate laid wiring.

3: Buildings: Of course I can't construct buildings on bases, but I can hint at them. Remember, the miniature is a little display of another reality plucked and placed onto a base. It's perfectly fine to have just a portion of something showing on a model's base. Once again, I return to Evergreen and Plastruct for plasticard sheets with diamond plate patterns, tile patterns, corrugated sheet patterns and siding patterns. I like Evergreen's 1/4" Tile pattern plasticard because it has a very defined cut, snaps easily into workable pieces, and looks just like a tiled or paneled floor! I add pieces of standard plasticard sheeting to simulate a broken wall, just leave on edge flat to glue to the base where the tile stops, and rag up the other edge with snips or a knife.

4: Pollution: This mostly came down to choice of paint. Having "oil" leaking from pipes or into drainage ditches by layering on green, brown and black washes to flavor. Most of the metal things were painted with splotches of rust, using a progression of GW Bestial Brown, VGC Hot Orange, then VGC Fiery Orange in a stippling pattern.

I suggest gathering your materials before you start your project, and make sure you have enough for the whole army. Take an hour and go to your local hardware store and check out their supply of washers and nuts, something is sure to catch your fancy. If they do window screen repair, ask for some scraps of aluminum screen, it makes great decking and grilles. I bought a piece today from Grieve's that was 12"x 24", it cost me $1.10, and it's more than I'll ever use. Stop by Hobby Lobby or Michael's and just look for doodads. Most of the stuff can be picked up cheap, and it's dead-useful.

So, I'll leave you with some shots of my DE bases, and I'll be back next time with some more basing techniques ,or whatever I damn well feel like!

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Armageddon Strike Force Alpha: 1,500 Point RTT List

Hey all, since a few other people have been kind enough to post their army lists for the upcoming RTT at our local game store, I thought I'd do the same.

Right around the time Ian started fleshing out his Death Company (that is to say, when the Storm Raven came out), I read an article in White Dwarf about the Armageddon campaign. Now, I've always loved the fluff behind the Second and Third Wars, but I'd never had an army that I liked and that had participated in the war. After reading through the new Blood Angel book and seeing how awesome their new models were, I was sold.

I wanted to make a rapid strike force, a group that would identify Ork threats, zoom in, do their job and then GTFO; kinda First Recon with Air Support. So I settled on Scouts with Camo Cloaks, Speeders and a Storm Raven full of Sternguard vets that count as "Death Watch".

As chance had it, there was a 1,500-point RTT coming up (March 12th). I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to d├ębut the army.

Here is the list thus far:

(NOTE: This is not supposed to be competitive, just a fun little idea. Though I realize the amount of Ass. Cannons may insinuate otherwise...)

1 x "Death Watch" Librarian with Fear of Darkness and Shield of Sanguinius
7 x "Death Watch" Sternguard Veterans w/ 2 Combi-Flamers
1 x Furioso Dread w/ Frag Cannon, Melta and Extra Armor
1 x Storm Raven with Twin-Linked Assault Cannons, Twin-Linked Multi Meltas, Hurricane Bolters and Extra Armor

5 x Scouts w Camo Cloaks: 4 x Bolters, 1 x Heavy Bolter and a Locator Beacon
5 x Scouts w Camo Cloaks: 4 x Bolters, 1 x Heavy Bolter and a Locator Beacon

2 x Land Speeders with Assault Cannon and Multi Melta
2 x Land Speeders with Assault Cannon and Multi Melta
2 x Land Speeders with Assault Cannon and Multi Melta

I'm thinking about dropping the Furioso as it doesn't really match the whole "fast" feel, but I have no idea what I would sub in for the same points...

I should have some pictures up soon, along with a little Scout Tutorial.

Lemme know what you guys think!


Tuesday, February 22, 2011

BADCo, til the day I die...

Previously, I had mentioned that I was building an all-Death Company army. I have dubbed my 2000 point list "the BADCo." (read as "Bad Company", stands for "Blood Angels Death Company") So for this installment of SGS I thought I'd break down the army list.

The impetus for the BADCo was when I was reading the Blood Angel codex a while back and stumbled upon the facts that all Death Company models have the Relentless USR, and a Death Company model may have both a Boltgun and a Jump Pack. This combination is unprecedented in my eight years of playing 40k. The persistent little seed of an idea took root, and I found myself continuing to come back to Army Builder, trying to build an army around the idea. I was enamored with the idea of a unit being able to lay down considerable suppressing fire, bouncing back and forth, balancing that 12" Rapid-fire, and choosing where and when they'd get into close combat.

After several unsuccessful attempts, I had found out that DCo. with jump packs were just too darn expensive to not be applied to close combat. 35 points per model, needing at least 10 models, preferably 15 to get the volume of fire I was looking for. Plus a Powerfist, two if the squad was 15 strong, to help dig their way out of CC. Then you're looking at investing in a Jump Chaplain for the twin-linked To-hit/To-wound to make up for the lack of that extra attack. Not to mention having to take Astorath, who costs almost as much as a Land Raider, just to unlock the 0-1 restriction on DCo. All in all, I figured I was spending too many points on a gimmick that would be ultimately less effective than just shoving DCo. into close combat.

But that idea tenaciously stuck around, clinging to the cliffside I had shoved it off of. I continued to tweak the list, and finally found something I was happy with, here it is:

-Death Company w/ Jump Pack (12x)
-5x Bolt Pistol/Chainsword
-3x Bolt Pistol/Power Weapon
-2x Infernus Pistol/Power Weapon
-2x Bolter/Power Fist

-Chaplain in Power Armor (Bolt Pistol/Crozius)
-Death Company (9x)
-8x Bolter/Chainsword
-1x Bolter/Power Fist
-Drop Pod

-Chaplain in Power Armor (Bolt Pistol/Crozius)
-Death Company (9x)
-8x Bolter/Chainsword
-1x Bolter/Power Fist
-Drop Pod

-Death Company Dreadnought
-Blood Talons
-Heavy Flamer
-Drop Pod

-Death Company Dreadnought
-Blood Talons
-Heavy Flamer
-Drop Pod

-Death Company Dreadnought
-Blood Fists
-Heavy Flamer
-Drop Pod

Granted, the list is a lot spammier than I like, lots of duplication. But when you're limiting yourself to two entries in an entire codex, things get a little redundant. The plan is to hold everything in reserve, decide if Dreadnoughts or Footsloggers will do best first turn, send them in. Astorath and Company Descent of Angels in at their convenience. The cheap Chaplains add another four Power Weapon attacks and allows the DCo. to re-roll To-Hits and To-Wounds, making for 18 Bolter rounds, plus 24 S5 attacks and 3 P-fist attacks, all of which are twin-linked twice, essentially. And you save almost 150 points by putting the Boltgun DCo. in Drop Pods instead of giving them Jump Packs.

Food for thought, lemme know what you think.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

De-Emoed Astorath

Hey all!

Just quick update for all you faithful SGS viewers. I'm here with an Astorath "Counts-as" model for my all-Death Company army. I really don't care for the Astorath model, so I tried to come up with an appropriate substitute. When I do "counts-as" models or armies, I strive to make sure that when playing games, my opponent will be able to immediately associate my "counts-as" model with its intended rules.

I read the fluff, and kept in mind that Astorath's job is to mercy-kill Death Company before they go so insane as to become a danger to their fellow battle-brothers. He also has a two-handed executioner's axe. I figured that a Grim Reaper, with its visage and scythe personified this role perfectly. Astorath also has a jump pack, so I had to make sure I included that.

The starting point for the model was the new Lemartes figure, but including a two-handed weapon was stumping me for a bit. GW doesn't produce a whole lot of figures that are actually wielding a weapon two-handedly that wouldn't add another $15 to the overall cost of the conversion, (my first thought was Typhus, but I didn't want to pay $25 to get his Manreaper). I searched through my Marines bits box and found the new Blood Angel Death Company Thunder Hammer bits (right-handed) and the Space Wolf Pack Frost Blade bits (left-handed). Based on Lemartes' posture, the Frost Blade looked best. I cut the Frost Blade axe head off and the handle below the right hand off. Two lengths of shaft were added to both sides from an old "Custodes Halberd" bolter/halberd/force weapon bit. The bottom of the Frost Blade was reattached to the bottom of the weapon shaft, and the power core of the BADCo Thunder Hammer bit.

The trickiest part was the scythe blade, which was made from scratch from plasticard. It took a long while to get the shape right, and even longer to get the blade part smoothed down. Some thin wire and dots of plasticard rod were added for the power weapon "nodes", the power cable from the BADCo Thunder Hammer arm was attached to the back, a top spike from the BA Librarian Dreadnought Force Weapon, two of the BA wing/blood drop icons from the BADCo box and a few purity seals.

All in all, it came out like this:

Be back soon!

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Reaver Jetbikes

Here's a small tutorial on how to paint Dark Eldar. The theory behind it is that the DE use different shades black that only really reflect color on the edges. As such, we'll only be putting color on the edges.

First step after assembly and priming is to mix VGC Chaos Black with water in a 1:1 ratio, then apply this over all the areas that will be predominantly black, such as the armored carapace. This is done because primer black tends to less vibrant than the paint-on acrylic black and Chaos Black will help the model's overall tone and aid in blending.

Next you'll block out all of the metal areas in GW Boltgun Metal, after the areas are thoroughly dry you'll wash with GW Badab Black. Clean up any areas where you strayed onto the black areas with VGC Chaos Black.

Our next step is to thin out some GW Necron Abyss, just enough to help it flow. We'll then take the color and rim the edges of all the carapace. Remember, two thin coats are ALWAYS better than one thick coat, especially for this style of painting. One of the reasons why this style is easier than most for blending is because you keep your paint thin, using the paint's translucency and allowing the previous layer to show through, enhancing the color progression and blending. The width of the line you put on the edge of the carapace depends on how vibrant you want the overall effect to be. If you want your carapace to look like a dark depthless black with the faintest of color, use thin lines. If you want the color to be more apparent, use thicker lines.

Next up is VGC Imperial Blue. Use the same method and go over the same areas. Because we already have the Necron Abyss base coat down, this step should go quicker and you should have less areas where you'll need to go back over twice.

The last two steps require more discretion. We'll be edging again with VGC Magic Blue, but you'll want to keep it VERY thin, remembering to allow the previous layer to show through. Here you'll have to decide which areas to highlight. On mine, I chose to highlight the "upper" areas, as if the light source for the highlights were directly above the model. take a close look at the pictures and you'll see what I mean. You have to imagine how light would reflect off the surface of the model.

The final step is done with VGC Ice Blue. This will be done very sparingly and only on the corners.

So, that's the hard part done! As long as you've got a good color progression, you can use this technique for almost any color. Here are a few recipes for those of you who don't want to do just blue:

VMC Burnt Cadmium Red
VMC Burnt Cadmium Red + VMC Carmine Red (1:1)
VMC Carmine Red
VGC Bloody Red
VGC Bloody Red + VGC Fiery Orange (2:1)

GW Orkhide Shade
VGC Scurvy Green
VGC Jade Green
VGC Foul Green

VGC Chaos Black + VGC Liche Purple (1:2)
VGC Liche Purple
VGC Warlock Purple
VGC Warlock + VGC Tentacle Pink (1:1)

VGC Scorched Brown
VGC Scorched Brown + VGC Dark Flesh (1:1)
VGC Dark Flesh
VGC Dark Flesh + VGC Bleached Bone (2:1)

VMC German Grey
GW Adeptus Battlegrey
VGC Cold Grey
VGC Stonewall Grey

Wednesday, January 5, 2011


Hey all! Sorry for the lack of updates, but here is a small update of some of the Dark Eldar stuff I've been working on. As I said previously, my DE army will consist of things I like to paint and things people don't often use, so Incubi were an obvious next step for me. I've decided to do the DE like I did my Space Marine army, lots of different schemes culminating into one hodge-podge force of badassitude.


Soon to come: Reaver jetbikes, Ravagers and Malifaux!